Searching for a guitar buying guide for beginners to help you get started? You’ve come to the right place! It’s a natural desire, considering guitar players are undoubtedly some of the coolest people around. But it’s not always easy to know where to start. There are roughly a bajillion types of guitars out there. Whether you want acoustic or electric, semi hollow or solidbody, archtop or flattop, or countless other considerations, there’s a lot to think about!
Luckily, your friendly neighborhood AMS Gear Nerds are here with the answers. We’ve assembled the ultimate guide to buying a guitar. And when we say ultimate, we mean ultimate! This guide will dig deep into every aspect of guitar buying, so you can pick the perfect guitar for your needs. You’ll either come away feeling like an expert or cross-eyed from the sheer volume of information.
Now, let’s find out how to buy the best type of guitar for you.
Understanding the parts of a guitar
Before we dive into how to buy a guitar, it’s important to know the terminology. How else will you be able to decipher the crazy words in the product listings to find your perfect guitar?
To start, here are the main parts of a guitar and what they do:


Headstock
The flat portion at the top of the neck that holds the tuners and strings in place. Some guitars are “headless” which means they don’t have a headstock and the tuners are down in the bridge.
Tuning pegs (tuners)
Holds the strings in place and maintains proper string tension. Turn the tuning knobs to tighten or loosen the strings to change the pitch. This is how you tune your guitar.
Strings
Steel (most common) or nylon cables stretched at a high tension over the guitar body. Pluck them and they vibrate to make noise. Thicker/longer strings make lower sounds, while tighter/shorter strings make higher sounds. A “standard” guitar has 6 strings, but you can find models with 7, 8, and 12 strings. For beginners, it’s best to start with six.
Nut
A small piece of bone or plastic at the top of the fretboard that holds the strings in place and maintains proper spacing. Other common nut materials include graphite, metal, and brass.
Neck
The long skinny portion in the middle where you put your fretting hand. The neck and headstock are typically made from the same piece of wood, and the fretboard sits on top of the neck.
Truss rod (not visible)
The truss rod is a metal rod that lives in a routed channel in the neck of a guitar under the fingerboard. With the turn of a hex key, you can bend or straighten the rod, changing the curvature of the neck ever so slightly to maintain an ideal string height.
Fingerboard (fretboard)
The fingerboard is a flat piece of wood glued to the neck that holds the frets. It’s also commonly called the fretboard.
Frets
Thin strips of metal placed horizontally across the fingerboard. This is how you play different notes on a guitar.
Inlay
Decorative materials set into the wooden surface of the guitar. You’ll typically find them on the fingerboard, like dot inlays, but fancy guitars will sometimes also have them on the headstock or body.
Body
Basically just a shaped block of wood. Acoustics are hollow wooden boxes, while electrics are typically solid or semi-hollow. The body of an acoustic is made up of the soundboard (top), back, and sides.
Pickguard
A piece of plastic either stuck or screwed directly to the guitar body (flattops) or resting on mounts (archtops). They’re designed to protect the finish from scratches when the pick swipes across the body.
Pickups (electric)
Magnetic bars in the body of an electric guitar that “pick up” the vibrations from the strings and convert them into electrical signals that then go into an amplifier.
Sound hole (acoustic)
An opening in the acoustic guitar body that helps project the sound and let the top vibrate more freely. They come in many shapes and locations on the body, but you’ll typically find round sound holes placed just below where the fretboard meets the body.
Rosette (acoustic)
A decorative ring inlay around the sound hole on an acoustic guitar.
F-holes
F-shaped holes in hollow or semi-hollow guitars. F-holes affect the tone and resonance of electric guitars and can even be used as sound holes in acoustic guitars — typically archtops. They’re still called F-holes, even if they’re not F-shaped (oddly enough).
Control knobs (electric)
Control knobs adjust pickup settings in electric guitars. Most commonly, control knobs adjust the tone and volume of the pickups. Some also have push/pull functionality that can toggle coil splitting, essentially turning humbuckers into single-coils.
Pickup selector switch (electric)
If an electric guitar has more than one pickup, a pickup selector switch lets you choose which pickup or combination of pickups you want to use at a time. Three-way switches (for two-pickup guitars) and five-way switches (for three-pickup guitars) are the most common.
Saddle
The saddle essentially does the same thing as the nut but at the other end. It holds the strings in place and maintains spacing. On an acoustic guitar, the saddle (typically made of bone or plastic) transfers the string vibrations into the body of the guitar. Electric guitar saddles are usually metal and fixed to the bridge. They can usually be adjusted to maintain proper string intonation and height.
Bridge
A metal (electrics) or wooden (acoustics) piece that holds the saddle. Many bridges also hold the strings onto the body of the guitar and support the string tension.
Bridge pins (acoustic)
Small pins with a round head made of bone or plastic that go through the acoustic bridge and hold the strings in place.
Tailpiece
A metal or wooden piece that anchors the strings to the body just below the bridge. Some tailpieces attach to the very bottom of the guitar where the strap lock is located, while others (called stop tailpieces) are metal bars mounted directly into the guitar’s body. Many guitars don’t have tailpieces.
Input jack (electric)
Where you plug in your 1/4 inch guitar (TS) cable when you want to play through an amp.
Strap lock/button
A small piece of metal or rubber screwed into the guitar’s body. As the name might suggest, it’s where you attach your strap to play standing up. Most guitars have two strap locks: one on the very bottom and one on the top of the body. Some acoustics have only one strap lock on the bottom.
Acoustic vs. electric guitars: What’s the difference?
Guitars can be divided up into two main camps: Acoustic vs. Electric. The difference between the two is how they make their sound.
Acoustic guitars make their sound the old-fashioned way, with vibrations, while electric guitars use magnetic pickups to convert string vibrations into electrical signals which are then pumped through an amplifier.
Deciding whether you want to rock an acoustic or electric guitar will be the first step of your guitar-buying journey. Let’s take a look at both types of guitars more in-depth to help you figure out which one is best for your musical goals.
Electric guitar buying guide for beginners


The electric guitar may have been invented way back in the 1930s, but it’s still the voice of the modern age. It was used to bring a new era to jazz music in the 40’s, helped create the rockabilly generation in the ‘50s, rocked and rolled all the way through the ‘60s and ‘70s, shredded the ‘80s, rained grunge upon the ‘90s, and it’s still going strong today.
It’s no wonder why people flock to the electric guitar. It’s one of the most iconic and groundbreaking instruments in the world. Its ability to produce incredibly versatile tones is beloved by musicians all over — plus, it can make anyone look super cool. And if you think the electric guitar is your next go-to instrument, here’s what you need to know.
Pros and cons of playing electric guitar
There are two main benefits to playing electric guitar, especially as a beginner:
- Easier to play
- Versatile tones
Electric guitars use lighter gauge strings, which is just a fancy term for thickness. They also tend to have a lower string height compared to acoustic guitars.
What that means for beginners is you won’t hurt your fingers as badly when learning how to play — which is one of the reasons many people quit guitar. They’re just easier to play.
Disclaimer: Your fingers will still hurt when you first start playing. Sorry, there’s nothing we can do about it. That’s completely normal as you build callouses on your fingertips. Electric guitars just hurt less compared to acoustics.
The second primary benefit of playing electric guitar is the tonal versatility. You can make all sorts of different sounds with an electric guitar. Whether you swap amps, turn the control knobs, or even plug into a few pedals, you can go from super clean jazzy sounds to downright dirty metal intensity (or anything in between) all with the tap of a button.
Of course, nothing in this world is perfect. There are still a few downsides to choosing an electric guitar:
- Needs more gear
- Can get technical
Electric guitars need a guitar amplifier to make sound. Not only is it just an added cost, but it’s also more research. You might even have to read another ultimate guide on amps…
In addition to an amp, you’ll also need a cable to connect to the amp. And of course, once you get down the gear rabbit hole, you’ll likely end up with a few effects pedals, too. Ask any guitar player; it’s a slippery slope.
See all those knobs, switches, and buttons on electric guitars — not to mention the ones on the amp and pedals you’ll likely buy? Well, you have to know how to use them. To many guitarists, learning what each knob does is part of the fun of electric guitar, but there is somewhat of a learning curve when it comes to the technical aspects of rocking an electric.
Electric guitar body styles
Unless you live under a rock, you probably know that electric guitars come in a huge variety of shapes. Some are nice and smooth, others have sharp or jagged edges, some even look like a V or a weird lightning bolt — and those are just the “standard” guitars.
While there are nearly countless body shapes, there are really only three electric guitar body styles:
Solidbody electric guitars
It really shouldn’t be a surprise when I say solidbody electric guitars have a solid body (shocking, right?). You essentially take a block of wood, shape it, cut holes for the pickups and knobs, stick a neck to it, and you have an electric guitar.
Solidbody guitars are the most common type of electric guitar. They’re the easiest to make and maintain, and they have the lowest feedback of any electric guitar. But since they’re literal solid blocks of wood, they can get pretty heavy.


Semi-hollow electric guitars
Semi-hollow guitars have a solid block that runs down the center of the guitar. This is where the pickups, bridge, and tailpiece (optional) live. On either side of the center block, the body of the guitar is routed out to make it hollow.
Essentially, you’re playing a wooden 2x4 with hollow chambers attached to one or both sides.
The solid center block helps to reduce feedback between the amp and the pickups, while the hollow side(s) reduce weight and allow more resonance, which affects the tone of the guitar.
It’s easy to spot a semi-hollow or hollow-body guitar because they usually have some sort of F-holes on the hollow sections of the body.


Hollow-body electric guitars
Again, self-explanatory. Hollow-body electric guitars are completely hollow. No center block here!
Because there’s nothing inside, hollow-body electric guitars resonate like nothing else, giving them a very unique mellow sound. They’re also much lighter than any other type of electric guitar.
However, no center block means they’re more susceptible to feedback. Be careful when walking in front of your amp!


Archtop vs. flattop
Yeah, yeah, this is a fourth body style section when I originally said there were only three. Get over it! But there’s little half-category that should be mentioned when talking about electric guitar body styles, and that’s archtop vs. flattop.
As the name might suggest, flattop guitars have a flat top. There’s no curvature whatsoever.
Archtop guitars have a slight curve or, dare I say, arch in the top. It’s like a little bump where the pickups and bridge sit that tapers off on either side.


All three of the primary electric guitar body styles (solidbody, semi-hollow, and hollow-body) can come in either archtop or flattop — though most hollow-body electric guitars are archtop. You can also find archtop acoustic guitars, but they’re more uncommon.
There’s not really a benefit or downside of choosing either archtop of flattop. They just feel different to play. Some players prefer archtop, while others prefer flattop. It’s all about what feels most comfortable for you.
4 types of electric guitar pickups
Electric guitars run on pickups. But since nothing is ever straightforward in the music world, there are four different types of pickups you can choose from:


- Single-coil pickups – Use a single magnet to detect string vibrations. They’re typically smaller and brighter than humbuckers.


- Humbuckers – A magnet with two coils designed to phase cancel each other and “buck” the hum that comes from background noise and string vibration. They typically have a warmer, fuller tone.


- P90 – Although they’re technically single-coil pickups, P90s are unique because the coil is wound around a different bobbin. Since that makes no sense to anyone without an electrical engineering degree, basically they sound like a happy medium between warm humbuckers and traditional bright single-coils.


- Piezo – A non-magnetic pickup that detects string vibrations under the saddle. You typically find them in acoustic guitars, but they’re also used in some electric guitar models, though not super common.
Humbuckers and single-coil pickups are the most common in the guitar world. But even beyond the single-coil vs. humbucker debate, you still have to choose between active and passive pickups.
Passive pickups are the most common. They’re basically just magnets doing their thing. No external power source required.
Active pickups use a battery to boost your signal to get more output and higher gain. You’ll usually find active pickups in “shredder” guitars used for heavy rock and metal. (Just don’t let your battery run out mid-show…)
You can find active and passive variants of both humbuckers and single-coils.
What’s a whammy bar? - Types of electric guitar bridges
Acoustic guitar bridges are kind of boring. They’re all essentially the same. Electric guitar bridges, however, come in a wide variety of fun flavors.
At the core, there are really two types of electric guitar bridges:
- Fixed bridge – Screwed into the guitar’s body. Doesn’t move.
- Tremolo bridge – “Floats” above the guitar body and moves when you press the attached metal arm, which is sometimes called a “whammy bar.”
But within those two types, there are all sorts of different styles for you to choose from. Keep in mind that this list is by no means exhaustive. There are tons of different electric guitar bridge styles out there. These are just the most common:
Fixed bridges
The most common fixed bridge is a hardtail. It’s just a piece of metal attached directly to the guitar body that holds the strings. No muss; no fuss.
For archtop electrics, you’ll typically find either the wraparound (for which the strings come around the back and over top of a metal bard) or Tune-o-Matic (with a stop tailpiece and separate bridge).
Fixed bridges are nice because they don’t need much maintenance or adjustment. They’re straightforward and super easy to restring.


Floating tremolo
While fixed bridges are great for maintaining intonation, it’s hard to argue with the fun of a tremolo bridge. Push on the metal bar attached to the tremolo bridge (also called a “whammy bar”) and make your guitar’s pitch take a dive.
The most common tremolo bridge is the floating tremolo. The front of the bridge hooks on two pins in the body of the guitar keeping it in place, while the back of the bridge sits on the body of the guitar with a little piece that goes through the body and attaches to springs mounted in a cavity on the back.
When you hit the whammy bar, the back of the bridge lifts up, reducing string tension and dropping your tone. When you let go of the bar, the springs pull the bridge back down to neutral.


Locking tremolo
Locking tremolos technically aren’t attached to the guitar body at all! With a locking tremolo, it’s a balancing act between the springs underneath and the string tension that keeps the bridge in place. The strings are “locked in” at the nut, which is where the name comes from.
The best part about a locking tremolo bridge is that you can drop and raise your pitch (push and pull on the tremolo bar), opening up all sorts of wild sound possibilities (hello divebombs!). The most popular locking tremolo bridge is the Floyd Rose.
However, because the bridge relies on balance, the slightest change in either string or spring tension will knock your entire guitar out of tune. It also makes changing your strings quite the project…


Tremolo tailpiece
There are also several varieties of tremolo tailpiece, the most notable being Bigsby. It’s essentially a big metal tailpiece with a roller that holds the strings attached to a spring-loaded bar. Hit the bar, the roller rotates forward, the strings lose tension, and your pitch drops. The spring returns the whole system back to neutral.
Tremolo tailpieces look great on retro-style guitars. It's technically a tailpiece, not a bridge, but it's still important to talk about with other types of bridges.


Acoustic guitar buying guide for beginners


The acoustic guitar is the OG. It’s based on very ancient technology of pulling a string tight and plucking it to make a noise. Just like you used to do with rubber bands when you were a kid!
On an acoustic guitar, the strings aren’t the only things that make noise. The strings are attached to a thin piece of wood called the soundboard (guitar top). The soundboard also vibrates with the strings creating the acoustic tone we all know and love. Throw in the hollow body chamber to increase resonation and volume, and you get the modern acoustic guitar.
If you prefer the mellow sounds of all-natural reverberation, here’s what you need to know about acoustic guitars.
Pros and cons of playing acoustic guitar
If you read the electric guitar section, the pros and cons of playing an acoustic are basically flipped. However, for our viewers just tuning in, acoustic guitars have two basic benefits over electric guitars:
- Less equipment needed
- No technical knowledge required
Acoustic guitars are very simple. They rely on physics to make sound, not electronics. That means you can easily pull your acoustic out of the case and start playing immediately. No plugging into amps, no tweaking knobs; just grab and go!
And less equipment isn’t just easier. It’s also cheaper. You don’t need to buy any additional gear to start enjoying your acoustic guitar — except maybe a couple picks.
Acoustic guitars are also a great starting point for beginners who don’t want to get encumbered by needing to learn about all the knobs, switches, and gear that comes with electrics. You can focus on learning how to play rather than what all the buttons do — because there aren’t any!
But it’s not all peaches and cream. Acoustic guitars do have some downsides that might turn some players away:
- Tougher to play
- Limited tonal versatility
Acoustic guitars tend to have higher actions (string height) and thicker strings. That means you have to press harder to fret notes, which can hurt your fingers until they you get the hang of it. They’re just a touch harder to play compared to their electric counterparts.
While electric guitars can make all sorts of crazy distorted noises for a variety of musical genres, acoustic guitars basically make only one tone: the one they come with.
However, many people don’t see the limited tonal variety as a negative because a natural acoustic guitar tone is one of the best sounds out there! There are even electric guitar pedals that attempt to copy the tone of a great acoustic.
Acoustic guitar body shapes
Just like electric guitars, acoustic guitars come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. However, with an acoustic guitar, the body shape plays a huge role when it comes to tone. Bigger and deeper bodies allow more resonation and projection, while smaller bodies sound darker and more mid-focused.
There are many different body shapes in the acoustic world. And to make it nice and confusing for everyone, each manufacturer has their own naming methods. But we’ll focus on the six most common acoustic guitar body shapes you’ll likely come across in your guitar-buying adventures:
Dreadnought


The Dreadnought is easily the most common acoustic body shape you’ll find. It was first introduced by Martin back in 1916 and quickly took over the music world. It has big ol’ square shoulders (top by the neck), a mild waist taper (middle), and a deep (thick) body.
Because it’s so big and boxy, Dreadnoughts provide a lovely balance between the bottom-end and high frequencies. It’s the perfect all-around guitar for just about any playing style — which is why it’s so popular!
Really the only downside to the Dreadnought body shape is that it’s big. Some smaller players don’t find it comfortable to wrap their arms around.
Grand Auditorium


The Grand Auditorium made its debut from Taylor guitars back in the mid-1990s, and it quickly became one of the most popular acoustic guitar shapes on the market. It’s a little wider than the Dreadnought around the bottom but slightly narrower at the shoulders with a narrower waist. Many Grand Auditorium-style guitars also feature a cutaway, giving players easier access to the upper frets.
Because its size is roughly similar to the Dreadnought, Grand Auditorium styles also offer a nice balance with good projection. They’re another wonderful all-around option for just about any playing style. And since they’re a bit curvier than Dreadnoughts, some players find them more comfortable to hold.
Jumbo


Uh oh, it’s the big boy. As you might have guessed, Jumbo acoustic guitars are, well… big. Jumbo-bodied acoustics are very round with big shoulders and a big bottom end (nice) with a narrower waist.
Their enormous size gives Jumbo acoustics a ton of tonal balance and projection. They’re ideal for heavy chord work.
Of course, they are ginormous — which might not feel comfortable for all players.
000 / OM


If the Dreadnoughts and Jumbos were too big for your liking, you might be more interested in the 000 or OM acoustic models (also called auditorium or orchestra models). They’re shallower and narrower than Dreadnoughts, making them more comfortable for some players. There’s not as much distance to wrap your arms around to strum.
But because of their smaller and narrower shape, 000 and OM models tend to lose some of the low-end power, accentuating the mids. They’re beloved by fingerpickers.
Parlor


Parlor guitars became popular for parlor players — imagine that! They’re even smaller and narrower than 000 and OM models, making them ideal travel companions or playing in small spaces (like parlors). They still feel like a full-sized guitar but with smaller body dimensions, making them super comfortable to play.
However, because of their narrow body and thin design, Parlor guitars don’t project as well as larger acoustics. They also lose some of the low-end power and favor mid-range frequencies.
Travel


Travel acoustic guitars are the babies of the acoustic world. They’re have a smaller scale length (shorter) and smaller bodies, designed to be compact and easy to take with you wherever you might go or however you like to travel.
Some travel acoustics look like regular Dreadnought or Auditorium models, just smaller. While others, like the Martin BackPacker, look almost nothing like a guitar but rather a stick with some strings across it.
Just be aware that the ultra-compact size doesn’t help travel guitars much in the ways of tone or projection. But if you just want something small, portable, and easy to whip out around the campfire, a travel acoustic guitar might be for you!
Common acoustic guitar build materials
Acoustic guitars make their sounds “au naturale.” It’s all about those good vibrations. And one of the most important aspects of vibration is the wood with which the guitar is made. Certain woods vibrate better than others. These woods are called tonewoods, and they’re what make an acoustic guitar sound so good.
These are the most popular tonewoods used in acoustic guitars:
- Spruce (top)
- Mahogany (back, sides, top)
- Rosewood (back and sides)
- Maple (back and sides)
- Koa (back, sides, top)
- Sapele (back and sides)
Top woods need to vibrate extremely well to get all that lovely tone and projection. Spruce (especially Sitka spruce) is strong and stiff, making it an ideal top tonewood. The grand majority of acoustic guitars use spruce for a top.
You can also find many acoustic guitars built entirely of Mahogany for their top, back, and sides. Mahogany is denser than spruce, giving the guitar a mellower, darker tone.
Woods used for he back and sides don’t need to vibrate as much as the top woods, but they still need to look pretty and be strong enough to support the construction of the guitar.
The most popular tonewood combination you’ll likely find is a spruce top with rosewood back and sides — though many variations and combinations exist.
You may also find guitars made of laminated wood, especially when it comes to budget-friendly or beginner guitars. While laminate wood is cheaper, it’s also less flexible, which can hinder the tone.
Think of it like this:
- All-laminate construction: inexpensive but doesn’t sound as good.
- Solid top with laminate back and sides: happy mix between tone and affordability.
- All solid-wood construction: more expensive but sounds the best.
When it comes to the fingerboard, most acoustic guitars use either rosewood or ebony. Rosewood is a bit softer for warmer tones, while the dense ebony provides a brighter sound. The bridge of an acoustic guitar is typically made with the same material as the fingerboard.
Acoustic guitar bracing


Deep in the bowels of an acoustic guitar, there’s some tonal magic going on that you can’t see. The top of an acoustic guitar isn’t just a thin piece of wood. There are strips of wood glued to the underside called bracing. And bracing performs two very important roles:
- Strengthens and supports the top
- Transfers vibrations throughout the top for better tone
The strings on a guitar are stretched so tight that they pull with up to 20 pounds of force. That’s a lot of weight for a thin little wooden top to support! Bracing helps hold the weight of the string tension without warping your guitar’s top.
Bracing is also responsible for transferring vibrations from the strings throughout the top for a balanced tone. Guitar manufacturers have come up with all sorts of ways to adjust the bracing to provide better bass, brighter highs, more projection, or really just make the guitar sound however they want.
While electric guitars have an equalizer (EQ) on the amp to adjust their lows, mids, and highs, acoustics have bracing. Just think of it as an acoustic EQ!
The most common type of acoustic bracing is X-bracing. The braces make a big X that meets just below the sound hole and above the bridge with smaller braces coming off the main X. There are other bracing variations, like Taylor’s V-Class bracing, but X-bracing is by far the most popular.
You might also see some guitars that have “scalloped” bracing. Scalloped braces are shaved down on the ends (and sometimes in the middle) to be thinner and allow more vibration. Scalloped bracing gives you a little bass boost (to stick with the EQ metaphor) and better projection.
Steel vs. nylon string guitars
Most acoustic guitars today use steel strings. They provide a louder and brighter sound that’s more in line with modern music styles. They’re also tougher and stand up better to heavy wear, especially when using a pick. Most guitarists play steel string guitars.
However, some guitars use nylon strings to give them a mellower classical sound. Since nylon strings don’t have the same tension as steel strings, nylon-string guitars (also called classical guitars) don’t have as much or any bracing under the soundboard. They just don’t need it. But that also means you shouldn’t use a pick because it can scratch right through the top. Fingers only!
Nylon-string guitars also tend to have wider and flatter necks for better string separation, which is ideal for fingerpicking, while steel-string guitars (both acoustics and electrics) have slightly rounded fretboards for more comfortable playing.
Classical guitars are great for beginners because the strings are nicer to your poor little fingers and the wide neck makes it easy to nail your finger positions, but there can be a bit of a re-learning period if you ever want to switch to a steel string guitar in the future. They feel quite different to play.
What’s an acoustic/electric guitar?


Acoustic guitars sound great, but what if you want to play for a bigger audience? They’re not going to hear you in the back row of Radio City Music Hall with just your acoustic guitar — even if you did pick a Jumbo body! When you’re ready to amp up, go with an acoustic/electric.
Acoustic/electric guitars are simply acoustic guitars with electronics installed. You can plug them into an amp just like you would an electric guitar. However, they don’t have the same pickups as electric guitars.
Most acoustic/electric guitars use piezo pickups under the saddle. Hollow-body guitars (like acoustics) are highly prone to feedback when amplified. Piezo pickups aren’t as susceptible to feedback, which makes them the ideal choice for acoustic guitars.
Some acoustic/electrics are equipped with microphone pickups that actually hear the guitar’s sound and convert it to an electrical signal. This is great for replicating an authentic acoustic tone, though it is more prone to feedback. Most guitars that feature microphone pickups also have piezo pickups, which is called a blended system.
And if you have an acoustic guitar that you want to turn into an acoustic/electric, you can find plenty of acoustic guitar pickups that are relatively easy to install. Some acoustic guitar pickups are single-coil magnetic pickups that you mount in the sound hole, just like an electric guitar.
Just be aware that even though your acoustic/electric can be played through an amp, it won’t sound like a standard electric guitar. Even amplified, acoustic guitars have a sound all their own. There are special acoustic guitar amps specifically designed to work with acoustic guitar electronics.
Neck, string, and fret configurations
Okay, you know the difference between acoustic and electric guitars and all about their body styles, build materials, and how they work — plus a bunch of other stuff you definitely needed to know, right? But that’s not the only aspect you’ll need to consider when choosing the perfect guitar.
There are still plenty of neck, string, and fret configurations used in both acoustic and electric builds that you’ll need to think about — specifically the number of strings and how the frets are arranged.
Six-string
A grand majority of guitars have six strings. It’s the industry standard and by far the most common string configuration you’ll come across with both electric and acoustic guitars.
If you’re just starting out, it’s highly suggested that you start with a six-string guitar. Learn your chords and scales, then start adding strings as desired.
Seven and eight string guitars (and beyond)
Some guitarists aren’t content with just six strings. They want more, more, more! That’s why you can also find guitars with seven and even eight strings — if not more!
These additional strings are typically lower than the standard low E you find on a six-guitar, dipping down into bass territory. Seven- and eight-string guitars are beloved by hard rockers and metal players. You can really dig into the low strings to make those heavy chugging power chords that you hear all the time in harder genres.
Seven- and eight-string models are most commonly electric guitars, but there are some acoustic guitar manufacturers that offer additional strings.
Just keep in mind that if you get a guitar with more than six strings (minus perhaps 12-strings, which we’ll get to next), the neck is going to be a real honker. All those strings need to live somewhere, and the guitar’s neck will get wider with every string. It might take some getting used to.
12-string guitars
It might sound daunting to double the number of strings you have to manage. But 12-strings are actually pretty straightforward. You play them just like a six-string!
With a 12-string guitar, all the strings are doubled. For example, where one string would be on a six-string, the 12-string has two strings super close together. You fret both strings together, so you’re basically just playing a six-string guitar. Twelve-strings use all the same chord fingerings and scale patterns as six-string guitars. It just takes a little more power to push the strings down, which isn’t always easy on the fingers.
However, it’s not just two of the same string. Well, most of the time… On a 12-string guitar, the string pairs are octaves of each other. For example, the lowest string pair is a low-E and a middle-E. The next is a low-A and a middle-A, and so on. The only exception is the top two (four) strings, which are just doubles of the same note. If they went an octave up, only dogs would hear it! (Not really, but it probably wouldn’t sound good.)
When you strum the guitar, all the string pairs played together give the guitar a full, unique chorus sound. You can find 12-string guitars in both electric and acoustic varieties.
Multi-scale guitars
Multi-scale guitars look like the builder messed up. The frets are all wonky and fanned out.
There’s a lot of math and science that goes into building a multi-scale neck, but it’s basically a way to maintain optimal string tension for each string. It’s more important for guitars with lower strings — like seven- or eight-string guitars and a lot of basses — but you can still find multi-scale six-string guitars.
Playing a multi-scale neck does feel a little different than a “standard” guitar. Your finger placements will be ever so slightly different, so it takes a little getting used to.
It’s best to start with a traditional neck and move to a multi-scale neck as your skills progress — if you feel the need, that is. Most guitarists prefer non-fanned frets, but it might be something to try out, just to see!
What genre do you want to play?
When most people go to buy a guitar, the salesclerk usually just asks whether they’re interested in acoustic or electric and your price range. But they never ask about musical goals! And we believe that your musical goals directly influence the type of guitar you buy. Different guitars are better for different playing styles.
Keep in mind that these “rules” aren’t set in stone. We’re making music, and there are no rules in music! Play with whatever kind of gear makes you happy, despite what the haters might say. These are just some general guidelines to get you started.
So, what kind of music do you want to play?
Blues and rock
If you want to play blues or classic rock, you can’t go wrong with a solidbody or semi-hollow electric guitar with passive single-coils, P90s, or humbuckers. They’re very versatile and resistant to feedback, which is great for when you want to crank it up!
Country
Country players prefer solidbody electric guitars, but there’s also the occasional player that picks a semi-hollow electric guitar. Single-coils are a country player’s best friend for that bright and “twangy” sound, especially on a Telecaster!
Of course, there are also plenty of country players who prefer to play acoustics. Go for a Dreadnought or Jumbo guitar to make the most of your “cowboy chords.”
Metal
If you want to shred, you gotta have a solidbody electric guitar. Look for a body shape with double cutaways for easy access to the upper frets. And a longer 24-fret neck will really help you rip those solos.
In the pickup world, metal guitarists typically prefer active pickups. They provide more gain and output that meshes well with heavy distortion, but passive pickups will still get the job done.
And if you’re into metal, don’t forget to check out the Heavy Metal Periodic Table to really hone your style.
Singer/songwriter and folk
Since singer/songwriters and folk musicians tend to accompany themselves, it’s really all about their personal style. Obviously most prefer playing acoustic guitars, but the body shape is completely up to your personal preference.
Grand Auditorium acoustic guitars are a good middle ground between tone, volume, and playability that singer/songwriters enjoy. But if you want to travel around and busk on the streets, maybe a smaller 000 or parlor guitar would be a better fit.
Whatever body style you choose, acoustic/electric guitars are best for singer/songwriters. That way you can sing through a mic and amplify your guitar for easier gigging.
Bluegrass and Americana
It’s all about the acoustics with bluegrass and americana musicians. They want a real bright tone that cuts through the other instruments and vocals in the band. The classic Dreadnought is definitely the way to go!
Jazz
Jazz musicians can’t get enough of semi-hollow and hollow-body electric guitars. They typically produce a cleaner, mellower sound. Couple with some passive humbucker pickups, and you’re ready to hit the clubs.
The elephant in the room: PRICE!


Nobody likes to talk about it, but it’s hard to dispute that price makes a big impact on the type of guitar you end up with. Yeah, you might want that custom shop electric guitar from the big brand. But if you’re not a pro (yet), dishing out that kind of dough just doesn’t make much sense.
This is generally how pricing works in the guitar world:
- Beginner - $200 to $500
- Intermediate - $800 to $1,500
- Advanced - $2,000+
While it’s definitely important to stick to your budget, you also want to think about your goals. If you’re not entirely sold on learning guitar and just want to see if you like it, by all means get a beginner guitar that won’t cost you a bunch.
But if you’re already into music or perhaps play some other instruments, it doesn’t hurt to jump to an intermediate guitar that will be able to keep up with your skills as you grow. Ask any guitar player: It doesn’t take long to outgrow your first beginner guitar.
Once your skills grow enough to the point you might want to play some shows, maybe it’s time to spring for that higher-end intermediate or advanced guitar that’ll last a lifetime.
Right-handed or left-handed guitars?
Another major consideration when it comes to buying a guitar is whether you prefer playing left handed or right handed. And the reason we say “prefer” is because there are plenty of lefthand-dominant guitarists who play a right-handed guitar.
Right-handed guitars are the industry standard. Your left hand frets the notes on the neck, while your right hand does all the strummin’ and pickin’.
Left-handed guitars are the exact opposite: You fret with your right hand and pick with your left.
And before you ask, no; you can’t just flip a righthanded guitar upside down and play it leftie — at least unless you restring it upside down too. (That’s how Jimi Hendrix used to do it!)
Think about which hand you’d prefer to strum and which hand you’d prefer to fret. It’s best to play a little air guitar to figure it out. Whichever feels most comfortable, that’s what’s you should go for!
Keep in mind that it’s somewhat difficult to find left-handed guitars. They do exist, but they’re definitely not as common — though more common than they used to be.
Keep accessories in mind


Unless you want to play acoustic fingerstyle, there are going to be a few guitar accessories you’ll need before you start jamming. You won’t want to leave home without them:
- Picks – Suggest starting with medium-gauge standard picks.
- Strap – If you want to play standing up.
- Capo – Helps you change keys without needing to know music theory. Extra helpful if you want to sing and play.
- Tuner – To keep your guitar in tune, obviously.
- Strings – Your guitar will come with strings, but it never hurts to have a backup.
If you choose an electric guitar, you’ll also need an amp and an instrument cable. And don’t forget to check if your guitar comes with a case or gigbag. If not, you might want to pick one up.
For beginners just starting out, you can get either an electric guitar package or an acoustic guitar package that has everything you need all packed in one box — including the guitar and accessories!
10 guitar brands to get started
- Gibson – Iconic solidbody and semi-hollow electric guitars along with amazingly well-built acoustics. High-end build quality for upper intermediate and advanced players.
- Epiphone – Many of the same models as Gibson but with a more budget-friendly price tag. Great for beginner and intermediate players.
- Fender – Some of the best solidbody, single-coil guitars on the market for intermediate and advanced players. They also make some great budget acoustic guitars.
- Squier – Fender’s budget-friendly brand that features many of the same solidbody guitars but at a price that’ll make beginners happy!
- Ibanez – A shredder’s best friend. Ibanez makes some crazy solidbody electric guitars designed to go hard. They also have a nice collection of affordable semi-hollow and hollow guitars to make clean jazz players happy and a line of acoustics that mix unique looks, great sounds, and affordability.
- Martin – The OG Dreadnought manufacturer. Martin makes premium acoustic guitars based on almost 200 years of guitar-building experience.
- Taylor – Where tradition meets innovation, you’ll find Taylor guitars. They build incredible high-quality acoustic guitars that (sometimes) buck tradition to create something completely new.
- Yamaha – It’s hard to get more bang for your buck than with a Yamaha electric or acoustic guitar. They sound great to both your ears and wallet!
- Schecter – Wild looks and even wilder sounds. Schecter is for all the heavy rockers out there with their lineup of amazing solidbody and semi-hollow electric guitars, along with affordable-yet-stylish acoustics.
- ESP – Keep on shredding with an ESP. Their amazing LTD series is perfect for intermediate players who are ready to rock, while their lineup of affordable and unique acoustic guitars will definitely turn heads.
Get started on your way to guitar stardom
There’s so much information to digest from this guitar buying guide before you can decide on your perfect guitar. And if you made it through all these thousands of words — good for you! You’re well on your way to finding your soul-guitar.
If you still feel like buying a guitar is daunting, don’t sweat it. The AMS gear experts are standing by to answer all your questions. Just give us a call at 800-458-4076 and we’ll happily walk you through the buying process and help you pick out the perfect guitar for your goals. We always love talking about gear!
And if you do buy a guitar that you don’t immediately fall in love with, AMS offers a 45-day money-back guarantee. Just send the guitar back for a full refund and try a different one. Our goal isn’t to push gear; it’s to push the right gear.
Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned from our ultimate guitar buying guide to find your dream guitar at American Musical Supply!

